A gore or a gusset

Ok, we talked about when a wrinkle appears while you are making a paper pattern. How about the opposite? When the paper is too tight?

too tight

too tight

Same idea as before, we mark the area from the edge towards the center pivot point.

mark a line

mark a line

The line should be straight. You can make one, or you can make more than one, evenly spaced  around the area.

cut the line

cut the line

The paper should pull open and relieve the tension.

add some paper

add some paper

Add some paper to fill the gap. Mark the extra flap of paper on both sides. Trace both straight lines from the upper paper pattern down below on the added extra flap of paper.

add

add

When you remove all the pins, lay the paper out flat and trace it onto your leather or cloth. Cut out the extra pie wedge of extra leather or fabric. Sew it in when you create your garment. The extra pie wedge can relieve the tension. The pie wedge can be as small or as large as you need. I have made stuff with a wedge that was 21 inches long. On medieval clothes a large wedge is sometimes called a gore. On the below photo you can see what it looks like in real life. I added this wedge on my armor to make it fit better around my lower back. The stuff on the right side of the red line is waste. I will cut that part away.

gore added

gore added

In this case, I marked the leather, glued it, then riveted it together. In fabric, you would have sewn the seams obviously.

So, between cutting out darts to pull the fabric tighter or adding a wedge to relieve tension will make your clothes and costumes fit way more nicer.

The pie wedge sometimes can be a square shaped or rectangle. In the armpit areas of armor or chain mail or medieval tunics this is used a lot to relieve pulling. This is called a gusset when used like that.

You may not be thinking about sewing or costume design right now. But re read this blog post and the last one again. One day this bit of info will save your project.

It also gives you power to create free-form patterns. With this bit of knowledge you could even design armor for your cat, or a cover for your sofa.

Go ahead, make a mess, free form your pattern, have some fun.

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s