Darts Gores and Gussets

So, you have made a few paper patterns now. But now you find that the real world is not completely flat. There are bumps, depressions, highs and lows. So how do we create our custom paper patterns to fit?  We use darts, gores, and gussets. Let’s begin with a dart.

Ok, let’s pin our paper to our body shape, that we created out of duct tape.

 pin paper to shape

pin paper to shape

As we pull it taunt, we notice a wrinkle has appeared.

a wrinkle

a wrinkle

So, this shows us that there is too much paper in this area. So, let’s take some of it out.

set the wrinkle

set the wrinkle

Place the wrinkle so it points towards the center, a pivot point if you will.

mark the wrinkle with a straight line

mark the wrinkle with a straight line

Go right down the middle of the wrinkle, and mark it with a straight line.

cut through the line

cut through the line

Cut through the line down to the pivot point. Make it one straight line cut down the middle of the wrinkle.

re pin the two halves

re pin the two halves

Once the paper is cut, overlap the two halves back in place. They should fit nicely over each other now.

re pinned

re pinned

Re pin the two halves back on the form. See how nicely it lays down now? Draw a line on the seam on the bottom layer to show how the top piece overlays the bottom.

second wrinkle appears

second wrinkle appears

When I pinned down my pieces, a second wrinkle appeared. Do the same procedure on the second wrinkle. Try to spread the wrinkles out evenly across the paper pattern.

cut the second one

cut the second one

re place the two halves

re place the two halves

re pinned in place

re pinned in place

Again, see how much it fits the shape? Now, just mark it again on the bottom layer.

mark the two halves

mark the two halves

Mark the two halves so they can be attached back together later. I have marked this across the seam with I, II, and III. When I have to re attach these two pieces together these marks will show where the two halves attach to each other.

mark the second wrinkle

mark the second wrinkle

waste area

waste area

If you un pin the two halves you will see the extra waste paper on the bottom flap. This is how much extra paper we have in this area.

cut off the waste

cut off the waste

Cut off the waste paper. This is extra.

waste is removed

waste is removed

re pin two halves

re pin two halves

If you re pin the two halves they fit perfectly now. All the waste paper is removed.

So, now you could take this paper pattern off, remove the pins and you would have a perfectly fitting pattern piece. If this was leather or cloth, you would sew parts a and b together at this seam. This would also work in cushion foam.

This is how fine clothes are tailored. You can see examples of this in breast areas of shirts, and near the waist line on pants, especially in women’s clothes. This is also how I make my leather armor more custom fitted. Don’t underestimate how powerful this tiny bit of knowledge is. Anything you want custom fitted can benefit from this procedure.

This post deals with the situation of when you have too much paper in your pattern. My next post will deal with when you don’t have enough paper in an area.

Go ahead, make a mess, cut up some paper, have some fun

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One response to “Darts Gores and Gussets

  1. Alicia DR Hankins

    These have always been intimidating when sewing. Thanks for presenting the idea so clearly, easy to understand. It makes so much sense to cut the wrinkle and see how the fabric falls. Great photos!

    Like

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